Laura Bulkley writes to her mother Anne about her visit to Chicago and White City and the World's Fair in 1893. This letter is 30 pages with extraordinary details of the buildings and exhibits. Here's a draft transcription - delightfully readable and you'll enjoy going back to 1893 and feeling like it was just yesterday. In the collection passed down from Laura we have a tiny asbestos cloth sample (!!!) and a trinket from the fair.
August 13, 1893
Higginsville, MO
My dear Mother:-
You will want to hear all about my trip to Chicago and the “White City” so I am going to begin this afternoon and will try and give you a faint idea of all I saw and heard while there.
Our party consisted of Mrs. Harwood and M. and Mrs. Burns, Ruth and Ethel, Maggie and Hugh Spears, Miss Allie Stuart and her brother and myself. We left H. on the 8PM “Hummer” Aug. 1 and reached C. the following morning at 10:15 after quite a comfortable journey. Mrs. Kennedy, who lived in H. during my first two or three years here had promised to take care of us, so we went directly to Cheltenham, and after refreshing ourselves with a bath, lay down for a short nap.
We found two lodgers here before us: Mr. Dinsmoor and his sister Mattie, a woman of 30 or 31, quite pretty and very pleasant. Much like Pollie in her ready appreciation of the humorous and quick repartee. We carried our lunch with us, so after we awoke, we refreshed the dinner van and held a council to decide how the evening should be spent. As several wanted to visit Chicago we decided to go to the city, spend the afternoon in sightseeing, return early and get a good nights’ rest ready for the fair on the morrow.
We took the elevated roads and in a half an hour reached State St. We visited the stores first and then such places of interest as our time would admit of. Studebaker’s Carriage Manufactory. The xxxx Building from the top of which we had a lovely view of the Lake, the Art Institute, the PO Custom House and Board of Trade claimed our attention. Then, home again – and to bed.
Thurs. A.M. we separated into twos and threes and since we are to follow only one we will drop the others except as we meet with them from time to time.
Miss Mattie and I were together much of the time and we found so much in common that we soon grew to be fine friends. Mr. D. carried our lunch and met us at some appointed place, where we would lunch together, compare notes and sometimes remain together the rest of the day, then again we would separate till supper time when we would again meet so that the girls could have a protector during the evening. So much for preliminaries now for the Fair proper –
The main buildings are the Manufactures, Administration, Machinery, Mines, Agriculture, Electricity, Transportation, Horticulture, Fisheries, Arts, Woman’s, Forestry, Dairy, Music Hall, XXX, Anthropological and Government. The use of staff has not been confined to the covering for buildings alone but has been used with marked success in sculpture ornamentation of every kind, vases facing for docks, etc.
Every structure within the grounds bears testimony to the skill of artists, not alone in painting but in sculpture without as well as within. One thing that struck me particularly was that all the main buildings are so arranged as to front Lake Mich. One can form but a faint idea of the beauty of the grounds unless they them. I flet that the sight of the buildings alone, repaid me for my trip. No matter where you stood to look the view was new and so beautiful you could but wonder if you were in fairyland. Around you on every hand were these handsome structures with their domes reaching to the clouds. White here and there, one caught glimpses of the blue waters of the lagoons and the lake. Here were the gondolas laden with human freight, the smaller electric crafts speeding noiselessly along, propelled by that mysterious agent hidden away in their stern; reminding me of the description Byron gives us of the boats used to carry the dead to burial, and smallest of all, the biking canoes, odd shaped shells large enough to accommodate four.
Out on the bosom of the lake lay large steamers, and smaller boats constantly coming and going with their burden of sightseers.
At night the beauty of te scene was enhanced by millions of tiny lights and fountains which reflected all the colors of the rainbow. But I must hasten or I will tire you with my poor description of this wonderful city.
Feeling some curiosity to know how the Fair was run, we commenced our sightseeing at the Power House. This building is equipped with some enormous pieces of electrical machinery. There is a 2,000 horse power engine connected with a generator, the largest every constructed. It is 23 ft long and weighs 296 tons. This furnishes the motives power for the operation of the Intramural Elevated R. R. Men are constantly rubbing every part of the machines and they do not allow the slightest particle of dust to collect.
I asked many questions for my pupils benefit, and in every building I was courteously treated – my profession was the “open sesame” to many doors closed to others. Next we visited a pumping house and oil tank where all the oil used in the furnaces of the Exposition is stored. The oil is pumped from Whiting Ind. which xxx receives it from Lima Ohio. It comes in 6 in pipes and is stored in 12 tanks built of iron and brick, underground, and sodded over. These tanks hold 120,000 gal and 60,000 gal are used per day. It is pumped over the grounds in a few minutes and makes no soot, no smoke and no ashes but intense heat – the man in charge kindly opened the door to the furnace and let us peek in to see how it worked.
From here we went to the crematory and garbage Furnace where all the garbage is disposed of. 2,000,000 gallons being disposed of daily.
The Forestry Building being next in order we stood long enough to admire the wonderful skill of man as shown in the beauty of its workmanship. Unlike the other buildings this is made entirely of wood, and joined together with wooden pins, not a single nail or other piece of betal being used in its construction. It is surrounded on both sides and each end by a roofed colonnade upheld by tree trunks trimmed but with the bark on, furnished by US Canada and foreign countries.
The walls are of slabs of wood from which the bark has been removed and the roof is thatched with tan and other barks. The cornice is of interlaced timbers of various sizes. From the top of the building float the flags or the various countries represented within. The main doorway is finished in yellow pine and cypress highly polished and beautifully grained cost $10,000. Just to the left on entering we found Mo’s exhibit as fine as anything in the building but poorly arranged. Michigan exhibited the largest load of logs ever piled upon a vehicle. Weight 300,000 lbs and this load was pulled by two horses weighing 1,700 lbs each. The sleigh and load are shown just as they were in the forest.
The immense pyramid in the center of the main hall is formed of the larges specimens from each state and country. Mo. furnished a gigantic cottonwood. Mexico sent violin woods, ebony, and other curious and beautiful specimens. Brazil too had a wonderful display – 320 ornamental woods being shown. The redwood, pines, cedars etc. of California must be seen to be appreciated as no description will do them justice. One redwood slab, highly polished measures 20 x 30 ft. From Ashville Car. was such a rustic bench made a rhododendron limbs and knots varnished but otherwise entirely natural.
Ohio had in my opinion the most perfect display of any state or country the arrangement showing leaf, blossom, fruit, and wood bark plain and polished and cut so as to show cross sections and lengthwise – the common name in large letters, the scientific name in small print.
Every method of logging, with the tools used, is shown and a great many curiosities are gathered together. One washtub measured 15 ft diam. A snake 120 ft long was carved from a root of a tree from N. S. Wales. The xxx veneering was especially lovely one block about 3 x 4 ft being worth $1,000.
Japan, China, Burmah, and India had carved work of every description and of all sorts of woods, the sandalwood and teak being most used and shedding a delightful perfume over their division of the building. I saw here an axe used by the “Grand Old Man” of his estate at Hawarden.
In the Anthropological building many curiosities are gathered together – manikins of man, the horse, deer, birds, etc. delight the physiologist. Models of various hospitals showing the interior of rooms the burses dress methods of applying bandages, etc. Next claim the attention of the sight seer I examined John Hopkins hospital and will always remember it. The fhair of electrocution is there model of Eastern Penn. Penitentuary. NY Reformatory Books used by American Incas, Dresses made by xxx used by Indian Winged lions which stood at palaces of Assyria 885 BC. Arctic whaling vessels, Anxxx xxx, Mexican fxxx work and ever so many other curious things.
By this time we were ready to rest so we went to the Ark Building where we agreed to meet Mr. D. Usually the buildings close at 6 o’clock but I heard a guard say that the Ark B. would be open to until 10 P.M. so we concluded to stay, and such a xxx as we had. Promptly at 8 P.M. an orchestra from Cincinnati commenced playing, and until 10:30 charmed us with classical music and transcriptions. While enjoying the music we feasted our eyes on the paintings and statuary I must not try to tell you about these as I fear I would not know when to stop. Suffice it to say, I saw a large no. of the finest paintings on exhibition. I spent that evening there and almost a day – and only regretted I could not spent a month.
Ask Tom if he saw “Tullia” to tell you about it – and also Dautau’s “Studio”. A German told me that Dautau had been in Chicago the Sat. before was offered $13,000 for this picture. Fearing he might be tempted to sell it he took his pen knife and cut the canvas from one corner to the other. It is wonderful, the expression an artist can put into his work and still more wonderful to note how the sculptor moulds the marble to his thought. Gelists struggle for work; French’s “Angel of Death and the Sculptor” “The First Funerals – Christ Blessing Little children” and “The Bullet in the Heads” are as perfect as skill xxxxx ……
Miss Mattie was quite tired when at 11 o’clock we retired, but I felt ready keep on several hours. I slept soundly and at 6:30 arose and by 8 A.M. was ready to start out again. Thinking it best to vary our program we went to the nearer entrance code across the grounds on the Intramural R.R. and visited the state buildings. The Mo. B first claimed our attention. We registered and proceeded to see things. Quite a no. of fine paintings adorn the walls and the rooms are quite handsomely furnished but it does not begin to compare with many of the others. N.Y. and Penn. Are the finest, then Cal. And Del.
What interested me most were the relics. The Mass B. is built in imitation of John Hancock’s house. The main room is 20 ft square. The ceiling is finished in black oak with the broad axe finish – walls are tiled half way up with old Dutch tiling. Mantel 12 ft hight decorated with a old silver tankards, china ware etc. broad oak settle running the entire length of room and through the centre of the room a long table filled with relics. Here I saw the first publication of the Dec. of Ind. In the Phil Packet July 8, 1776, the original witchcraft documents, deeds of land, transferred in 1679 by Bridget Bishop, Nathaniel Hawthorne’s ancestor. A curious table chair of 1654. A watch brought to Plymouth in the Mayflower and worn by Miles Sxxxdish, Geo. W’s desk – a cradle used in five generations of the Adams family which including the two presidents!! The dress worn by Mrs. Adams when her portrait was taken for Queen of England and a number of other curious interesting relics that will help me to make my history classes happy this winter.
I spent some time looking over the pictures of illustrious men and scholars of Mass. Phillips Brooks had a prominent place and I copied an ode written to his memory thinking you would like to see it. In the Penn. B. was the old Liberty Bell also the first bell rung in America. In N.Y. an old Dutch Bible used in 1660. A silver punch bowl presented to Gov. Clinton at opening of Erie Canal.
A great many handsomely carved chests belonging to the early Dutch settlers and many tapestry paintings 300 yrs old. In the Penn. B. I also saw the Charter granted by Charles II to Wm. Penn. Silver watch vest and stockings worn by Chas Carroll at the signing of Dec. Fork and Spoon used by Washington at Valley Forge. Micg belonging to Paul Jones and Anthony Wayne’s sword. I saw many things I wanted to note down but my time would not admit of it so I made brief notes of such things as I could remember while walking from place to place. Every now and then I recall something I saw and make a note of it for the journal I want to write this winter. I spent all the morning in these buildings and then in the company with Mr. and Miss D – ate my dinner on top of the N.Y.B. from which place we had a lovely view of the Lake. Then we went to the Fisheries which is beautifully arranged and one of the most popular buildings if the crowd is any indication of popularity. Each time I was there I found it a perfect jam. In the center of the building which is in the form of a polygon is a basin or pool 26 ft wide from the center of which rises a mass of rock covered with moss and lichens. From crevices in the rocks streams of water gush forth and fall upon the rushes reeds and plants below. This pool is filled with gold fish, quite gentle and sociable. In the room where the live fish are, are large tanks, filled with water sea weeds etc as in their native haunts. The sea anenomes are lovely.
You know I have a special fondness for Zoology so you will not be surprised to hear that I spent over half a day here. All kinds of crabs, starfish, cuttle fish, turtles, porpoises etc claimed my eager attention. I passed hurridly through the room where the mounted specimens were having seen many of them at the School of Science in C. 7 years ago and at Topeka.
At night we went to the Electricity Building and words fail me when I attempt to describe the beauty of the place. Around the top of the building are arranged the names of the greatest electricians of the world. These appear in every color imaginable. Transparencies of every description are to be seen on every side while the gallery is supported by huge columns of lights so arranged as to show the various colors used in decorative illumination. Here are to be seen the various applications of electricity, the phonograph, in its perfection, the telautograph and every so many other things. I was greatly interested in the search lights from Germany. There are four hear, one of which being the largest in the world. The light from them is very soft and pleasant, yet so powerful are they that they will light a point 78 miles distant. The electric fountain is still a course of wonder to me. I cannot understand how the waters reflect the various colors of the rainbow. I was told that they passed through colored glass tubes still I cannot see how it is accomplished.
The fire works were not a success owing to the windy night but the white caps on the lake were lovely and compensated me for the loss of the fire works.
Sat morning we went first to the Woman’s Building where we saw exquisite needle work of all sorts, laces so fine they resembled cobwebs. China painting that made me wish I could stay there a week. Pictures and sculptures equal to xxx the Ash Gallery – Queen Isabella’s sword, Queen Victoria’s needlework etc.
I felt curious to glance in upon the children so we went there next. They are well cared for – the rooms bright and attractive with nice looking nursemaids to attend to their wants 0 the top of the building is flat and has a railing around it and a canopy above so they can enjoy the fresh air. We did not tarry long here but went on to Machinery Hall as we wanted to see the machines in operation. The noise of the ponderous machinery is almost deafening but the wonderful mechanism of the various machine held my attention from the moment I entered until I left. I saw them pick the cotton from the bush and take it through the various stages until it was ready for clothing. Further on I saw them lithographing and brought several of the pictures home as souvenirs. Was so interested in watching them making asbestos cloth. They first crush the mineral and then run it through huge rollers which separate the fibre from the sands. The long fibres are worked up into stage curtains, the shorter into ropes and the sand into lining for stores, cement etc. not a particle is lost.
Canada furnishes the finest. A rope 1 ¼ in diam will sustain a weight of 2440 lbs. The genteleman gave me samples of the mineral fibers and cloth. Said there were but few ladies who seemed interested in their work. A small boy of 13 or 14 yrs of age was operating a machine for making binder twine from paper made of the fiber of the spruce. He explained the process and gave me a fine sample of the twine. They think this is superior to all other twines as it will stand continued rains and being run through a preparation of poison is not touched by crickets.
We were also fortunate in seeing a rotary pump in operation, which pumps 3850 gal of water per min and the hydraulic rams which send a stream of water with such force a horse is killed if it comes in contact with it. It seems to me that an unbeliever visiting the exposition must be convinced of the Power behind man – Strong as is the intellect of man may be there must yet be direction and guidance from above before he can produce that which his mind has conceived.
Miss Andrews’ little classics came frequently to mind during my rambles. You remember in “A Peep Into One of God’s Storehouses” how she tells of the coal hidden long ages until God seeing that his servants have need of it causes of of his curious fellowers to investigate the rough mountain side then seeing the coal hidden away to set his machines and bring it up for use. The huge machines made me think that His servants had advanced wonderfully in their method of bringing these treasures to light, think so?
Dinner over we went to the Transportation Building and if they fail to show you any vehicle that was ever in use I am surprised. Every vehicle of which I ever read from the primitive oxcart down to the latest Pullman Palace car is shown. Here I saw the first cars used in England and the first in America. Very chinsy affairs they are with their tall smoke stacks and water barrels instead of tanks. Daniel Webster’s carriage is given a conspicuous place also that of Lafayette and Polk. The Spanish Volanter, Irish Jaunting Car, TallyHo Coach. Jim Riki Sha from Japan are curious and uncomfortable if one can judge from appearances. There are models of steamers from every nation under the sun. That of the “Victoria” is 30 ft long and cost 20,000. The model of the great Forth Bridge of Scotland is wonderful. Grace Darling’s skiff is to be seen. Also the life boat manned by womein in N.E. and instrumental in saving several hundred lives. There is a section of one of the largest steam ships ever built, on exhibition. We went over this from top to bottom. We also went through the Pullman Palace Car, the Wagner Palace Car and the German cars. Both the English and the German cars came up to my idea of them as gleaned from descriptions of them in magazines. The canoes of foreign countries interested me greatly, some of them being made so that you could fold them up and carry them under your arm or upon your back.
The improvement in carriages both for grown people and for babies is fully exemplified here. In fact no one can form any idea of the number and variety of the modes of locomotion used by the various nations of earth until he has visited this building. The Horticultural Building was quite a treat both to the optic and olfactory nerves. For we had seen so much that was wonderful, curious and strange it was a relief to come back to mother nature.
In the gardens are to be seen every variety of plant and shrub. The design being very handsome and wonderfully artistic. The German pansies were unsurpassed and the French gladiolas gorgeous. I wished very much that I had been with someone who could tell me the names of all, for many I had to guess at. The Cal. orange and lemon grove was interesting but the finery from N.S. Wales surpassed anything I saw. Huge ferns 15 and 20 ft high yet so fine and delicate they made one think of lace. In the central hall is a huge mountain of palms and trees of various kinds – this conceals the furnace that heats the building and also the reproduction of the Mammoth Cave of KY. The greenhouses are not often open to the public but we were admitted and saw how they forced the plants and prepared them for transplanting. The orchids were lovely and the begonias exquisite.
Out on the wooded island the rhododendrons, the roses, carnations, lilies, and foliage plants were the most striking. I was in David Crockett’s house and walked over the island several times. We ate our supper in the pier near the movable sidewalk which reminded me of a merry-go-round. Then took a boat and went to Chicago. We left just at 7 o’clock and were soon out on the lake. The grounds are lovely from the lake and when one after another the buildings were lighted the scene was one never to be forgotten.
A stringed band discoursed soft sweet music all during the trip and although we were 0 miles out and 12 miles to C. it was over all too soon. Here we bought tickets for America. Mon. xxxxxxx and after “bxxx” for an hour or so went out to Cheltenham on the electric R.R.
Sunday morning I attended Grace Church and had I not know it was an Episcopal church I should have thought I was in a roman Catholic Cathedral. The building is quite old and very beautiful and the music was fine, but the ritualistic service spoilt it for me. Maud, Mrs. Harwood and I went to Lincoln Park in the afternoon where we were to meet the others. As they failed to appear we spent the afternoon quietly on the pier and then went to hear Moody. I was again disappointed for we found him rough and irreverent.
Mon. morning I went in to see Mrs. List. Found her without any difficulty and spent the entire morning with her. She is very sad but looks quite well – has grown so much like her mother. Bess is very handsome and still the same sweet girl – cares nothing for company but begged hard to come home with me. Mrs. L. has 45 boarders and finds it profitable. All her old friends stop with her. She talked freely of many things to me which I can best tell you on your return. She wanted me to come and stay with her but for several reasons I thought best to decline.
I agreed to meet Miss Mattie at the Art Institute at 12:30 so I left Mrs Lil in in time to be on hand at the appointed hour. Just as I entered the building I saw a nice looking old lady who was losing her dress skirt. Going up to her I offered my assistance which was accepted after which we entered into conversation. I found her to be Dr. Agnes Kemp of Harrisburg, PA. As Miss M. had not appeared I accepted Dr K’s invitation to go into the World’s Congress and there I met and shook hands with a Mrs Regina Magner of Portugal a charming woman who has lately completed the life of Mrs Chris Columbus. She told me if I would go to the Art gallery with her should would show me several fine Rembrandts, Van Dykes, etc. Of course I went and there finding Miss M. we went into the Congress Hall. Here we saw Susan B. Anthony, Belva Lockwood and many other strong women. The papers were upon suffrage in France, Switzerland and Mexico – not woman suffrage but suffrage in general. I am fond of Civil Gov. so I enjoyed these papers and the discussions quite a good deal. It would be well if the U.S. would follow the Republic of Switzerland in some respects, the qualifications necessary being these – must be 21 years of age, must have an occupation and be a pure native with an income of $500 per annum. All drunkards, criminals, idiots and lunatics are excluded. After the congress adjourned at 4 we spent an hour or more in looking at the pictures and statuary, then met Mr. D. and went over the W.C.T.U. Temple, the Masonic Temple and the Auditorium Hotel – three of the finest buildings in America. We lunched at Gunter’s for “auld lang syne” and finished with Messelrode Pudding then proceeded to the Auditorium Theatre to hear “America”. This is as you know a spectacular play setting forth all the chief events in American History from the discovery of the continent to the present time. 700 take part and are frequently on the stage at one time so you can form some idea of the size of the building. The scenery, costumes etc. are all imported from France and are gorgeous. I won’t attempt to describe it until I see you as my letter is already much longer than I intended to inflict upon you. I was most affected by the camp scene in the Civil War – Lee’s army was shown resting before going into action. The camp fires were burning and the soldiers busy about the evening meal or resting at full length upon the ground. Suddenly from 500 voices rose the old song “We’re Resting Tonight on the Old Camp Ground” I could not keep back the tears – it was so beautiful and made me think how often Bro Willie had joined in the same song.
Tues we went to the Agricultural Building and here one got a fair idea of the wealth of the various states and countries as shown in their agricultural products. The various divisions are clearly defined and many of the States use their chief product in the construction of their booths or xxx houses. Ill. Uses corn cut in cross sections and so arranged as to form a perfect wall paper with border frieze etc. Ohio uses the buckeye. N. Dakota grain, Montana grasses, Cal. Fruit, etc. Mo. Has the main entrance to represent the St. Louis Bridge but spoils the effect by hanging corn form one end to the other reminding one of the interior of a negro cabin with its string of seed corn, dried apples, etc. In N.D. a man on horseback bearing banner with state motto was made entirely of wheat. Ill. Had almost the same figure with the inscription “In the march of Progress we lead” on the banner. This was made of corn, the corn stalks, silk, tasssels, cobs, shucks and grain being used. Montana had capital reproduced in grasses. One of the Eastern States, N.Y. I think, had huge statues 10 ft tall made of chocolate. Here I saw them make silk napkins, handk’chifs watching each operation from the time the cocoons were scalded. The exhibit of wild flowers and fruit from Colorado reproduced in wax was wonderful.
California had a man on horseback made of prunes and apricots. Canada furnished the largest cheese 22,000 lbs, La. Had a miniature rice farm. The lady in charge here gave me samples of rice grain in husks and a package of the finest grade rice with cooking book. Iowa had the state capital modeled in silver and Ventura Co. Cal. Had a Chinese pagoda made of beans. Germany had a huge pyramid made of red peppers so arranged it looked like embossed leather. In the gallery were models of old time saw mills side by side with the latest improvements in milling machinery, breweries, flour mills, etc. Java exhibited the finest coffee I saw anywhere. The grains being fully an inch long and a rich golden color.
The leather building had every variety of leather and skin used in commerce. The Russian display was superior to any other. I did not devote much time to the examination of tho exhibits but saw a great deal to interest me. They were making shoes which xxx in so I watched them for some time and then passed onto Lyon Mass. had shoes of every style and material. The largest was 8 ft xxx and 15 long made from xxxxx. Some of the finest shoes were of white kid with diamonds for buttons! The widest beslt every made was shown also the longest the first is 12 ft wide, 2 ½ in thick, the latter 10,000 ft long 12 in wide. The collection of stuffed animals is fine and so beautifully mounted. A dwarf cow and calf from St. Paul DeLoanda Africa, interested me no little. The cow was 3 ft long 18 in high. Here they had the rubber tree growing. A bottle of the sap as it comes from the tree, the rubber in the various stages until it is used in shoes. A snake skin 20 ft long was beautifully tanned. Also an alligator stuffed and holding umbrella over its head – nearby was a nest of eggs with one little alligator popping out. Chains made of skins, rugs, robes, etc. in great profusion quite enough to keep one busy for many weeks. In the fine stock pavilion which is not yet open to visitors but which we saw through the kindness of Miss Mattie’s cousin Mr. Jus D. of Ind. Pres. Of the fine stock display. We saw the finest butter cow on exhibition – price $15,000. Xxx of butter produced per annum 1270 lbs. Not a very remarkable looking animal either. Rather a large rough looking Jersey. Some of the animals were beauties. In the diary where is as cool as an ice house, flowers, fruits, XXX etc are reproduced in butter. Even a model dairy farm is shown, everything made of butter and by a woman! The only implement used being two butter paddles one a ft wide, the other 3 in wide. How she ever fashioned the delicate xxx and pistils with these is yet a mystery to me.
In the mines and mining the display of minerals is bewildering. Arizona’s petrified wood is exquisite as is the onyx from California and Mexico. The former had the great seal of the state elegantly carved in opalized wood. Some of the specimens from Arizona were 3 ft in diam. highly polished and showing beautiful graining. N.S. Wales shows a collection of gold nuggets valued at $50,000. South Africa shows the Kimberly diamond fields where the xxxx stones are washed and separated from the dirt. In the Manufacturers building the following day I saw them cut and polish the diamond. Montana claims the honor of having the largest specimens of gold quartz ever mined. N.Y. has a pavilion of white marble but this is hardly more beautiful than a column of polished granite 18 ft high taken from one of its finest quarries. La. has a statue of Lot’s wife carved from a single block of rock salt. Eng. also has a copy of Bastiat’s “Liberty” carved from salt. Mo.’s display compares most favorably with any state or country in the variety and quality of specimens on exhibition. After dinner we went through the Wash. State Building (where I met Julia Smith Rochester), Florida, California, Ky, Ceylon, Germany and France. Then over to the Midway Plaisance to look and decide which of its attractions we should attractions we should visit. After supper we went to Buffalo Bill’s show and such horsemanship I have never seen as was exhibited by the Russian Cossacks. He has 200 men with him Eng. Fr. German. Russians, Turks, Mexicans, Cowboys, Indians and Americans. First came a grant military parade each nation being dressed in national costume and bearing their flag. Then a dervish dance. Indian acrobatic performances, shooting of glass ball methods of Indian warfare shown. Buffalo hung, lassoing and riding of mix horses. Such bucking I never dream of. One of the horses bucking over the 4 ft railing onto the seats. Riding of Cossacks followed each man excelling his predecessor. They rode erect in saddle with face toward horses’ head – those with back to horses head next balanced on hands, then with head on pommel of saddle feet in air. All the time their horses going in fast run. One man threw his gun 10 or 12 ft forward and caught it before it fell. Another balanced fun on wrist and knuckles and whirled it so rapidly it looked like a circle of light. Yet another jumped from his horse, picked up his cap and sword and was up and away before the horse slackened spurs. The music seemed to inspire the horses and was indeed grand. The performance lasted 2 ½ hours and I never felt tired. One Indian turned 17 somersaults without touching hands or feet to the ground that we could see and the search light followed his every motion so that it was bright as day.
Wed. we went into the Gov. Building the the Smithsonian Institute, the Alaskan Canoe exhibit, the huge redwood tree, etc. Kept us busily interested till almost dinner. We spent the rest of the day in the Liberal Arts and found so much to look at we went again on Thurs. Here I met Mr. and Mrs. XXX, saw Mrs. Horde, Mrs. Suggette and Sallie and Mrs. Spencer but did not speak to them. Where so many things are shown it is hard to choose which to talk about. I think I enjoyed the wood carving and watches from Switzerland as much as anything. The smallest watch was in the shape of an acorn the xx of xxx the acorn of Roman gold, the face of the watch was ½ in … Price $500. The finest watch was thickly set with diamonds and cost $15,000. Novelties in the form of xxx, bugs, roses, daisies etc. were unique and beautiful. Italy’s display of statuary was exquisite. The Dalton and Worcester China pavilions lovely beyond compare. One vase costing $40,000. Tiffany’s display is one of the finest. Mermod and Jackard too have everything beautifully arranged. The singer sewing machine co. were at work on their tapestry paintings and the crowds near by testified to their hearty appreciation of the work. I think everything every made is shown here. I know it made my eyes tired to look so we went out for another board ride to rest them. That night the Thomas Orchestra competed with Gilmore old band under Reed’s leadership so we went to hear them and enjoyed a rare treat. Next A.M. we took our valises. I carried only a small hand grip to the grounds with us so as to lose no time during our last day. Checked them and then proceeded to make the most of our time. I wanted to visit the Indian villages so we went there first. Saw an old Indian whose father had. Been a friend of Wash. and Deerfoot who had won a race for the Prince and Wales and won the prize offered by him. Boarded the “Santa Maria” and examined it carefully. Visited the Convent of La Rabide where we saw the Com. Granted C. by King and Queen of Spain. Columbus’ will, letters from him to his son, also letters of Vespucci and DeLeon, the first descriptions of America. Doorways from the houses where Columbus lived. Books and maps 1500-1600. Was much interested in examining an illuminated Spanish missal of the 16th century, a large folio 3 ft by 2 ½ ft. I was sorry I had not come ere earlier. I found so much of interest. From here we went to the Krupp gun, one of five largest in the world, the barrel weighs 120 L the carriage 67 L the ball 1 ¼ from 8 to 1100 lbs of powder is used and the ball is sent 20 miles. Cost of one shot $1250. It has been shot 16 times. Near by was an imxxx plate of iron at least 2 ft thick through which the shells had been fired and so great was the force with xxx the shells were sent that not a scratch could be seen on its surface – though the holes went clear through the plate. We went back to the Liberal Arts and remained till 4 o’clock as we could not see everything we consulted our “Time Saver” and hunted up the most notable exhibits. The building is a study in itself the chandeliers are the largest every made are suspended 140 ft above the main floor and are equal to about 830,00 candlepower. The western side of the building is devoted to the stained glass display and is indescribably lovely.
The wonderful clocks I saw and listened to their chiming. The Columbian vase and quite a number of other exhibits that I must not try to tell you about. The art gallery lay on our way to the midway so we yielded to the temptation to walk through and spend much more time than we could well afford. On the midway we visited the Libby Glass works where we saw them making glasses, bowls, etc, spinning glass and cutting glass. I saw the Princess Eulalia’s dress also many fancy articles made from the spun glass which is very pliable and beautiful. Then we went into the Moorish Palace, the streets of Cairo, the Chinese House. Enjoyed the Swiss “yodlers” (I’m not sure that is spelt correctly) open air concert. The Moorish concert and walked the entire length of the midway seeing many things to interest and amuse us. By this time it was 9 o’clock so we walked across the grounds got our valises bade a long lingering farewell to the beautiful white city and started homeward. When we reached C. we found Mr. D. and Miss Mattie had 4 mins to get aboard their train, so I bade them goodbye and finding my train had been made up I went aboard too, made myself comfortable for the night and was fast asleep in 5 mins. We did not leave C. till 11:-- so I got a good nap before the conductor called for my ticket. I slept soundly all night and until nearly 8 A.M. When we reached Road House at 9 I found we would have to wait 2 hours, so I went out for my morning exercise and lunch, then back to the train when I wrote on my notes. It was cloudy and cool so my trip was quite pleasant. The girls said they never knew me to return from a trip so thoroughly rested as I was this time. I think it was partly due to the fact that I took my cold bath night and morning all the time. I was away and careful of my diet. My entire expenses did not quite reach $25.00 and I know I got more than $100 worth of education from it. I’m afraid I’ve tired you with my lengthy account of things but I want you to send it to Ollie please – so I wrote more than I otherwise would have done. I was unable to write very much while I was with Pollie, and since my return last Tues. have been very busy cleaning house and getting things in readiness for school. Mr. Walked called yesterday (Sept 2) to consult!! With me on various matters pertaining to the school and was quite pleasant. Hope he will be as agreeable in the schoolhouse. It seems a little remarkable that in the last four months I have met with all the Supt’s of this school since I have been connected with it. Mr. Longshore and Will Chambliss I saw here in July, Mr. D. in C. and Mr E. and Mr. Martin in Marshall. Mr W. here Mr. M. I did not recognize at first as I have never seen him since he left here 6 years ago. Polly took me to see Mrs. Neff and I spent such a pleasant day with her. She gave me some very nice plants for Bess and a bunch of Peafowl feathers for myself. These I can share with Loutie, Nettie and Mrs. F. Pallie is a dear good girl and my visit was very happy with her. I met Mrs. Wm. Napton, a warm friend of Pa’s, while I was there. A nice lady and a staunch Episcopalian. My sheet warns me to close so with ever so much love to each one and an extra share to yourself – with thanks for your nice letter and hoping to welcome you home soon. I am your loving daughter.